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Post Info TOPIC: Buying a Scimitar


Can Do!

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RE: Buying a Scimitar


Frankie is @ Eaton Quade Plastic's here in Okc, you can contact him about the winglets.  I don't know what he gets for them 
 
frankie@eatonquade.com

  web site    www.eatonquade.com





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RE: Buying a Scimitar


Thanks Ole, I'll let you know how the drilling goes. Probably wont be for a few days as I have some snow removal to do before it warms up too much and gets too heavy. I will also check to see if I can find that coupler locally if not I'll let you know. Are the wingletts the pieces of plexiglass that attach to the w/s post and the b pillar? If so how much?

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RE: Buying a Scimitar


Good Deal  !
another Scimitar project on the site.
Frankie here in Okc makes the winglets for the Scimitars, and "t" tops as well.
I have a coupler if you need one cheap.

If you want to check ourt the floor, better, and the transon, boxes as well, use a 1/4 drill bit and drill a few holes where you want to check, and collect the drilled stuff and inspect for moisture, color, then you can fill the holes with a 1/4 dowel and glue it in.  I'd use a bigger bit to check out the flotation boxes, dig out a little of the foam, dril & check the boxes down low in the back corner, and you can drill check that wide piece of transom wood the same way, but Not all the way to the bottom, drill it up a inch or two, you can drill into the hull back there.


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RE: Buying a Scimitar


Well, I bought it. The engine is out, but complete. The upholstry is in good shape. The outside needs painting. The carpet needs to be replaced(it's original and worn).I'm wondering how to better check the floor it seems remarkably solid. This fellowed owned the boat since 1989 and kept in fairly good condition. So far the only thing that I can see thats missing is the coupler from the crank to the drive and the w/s wiper arm. The passenger side snap in window has a hole from a hail storm and the two tinted deflectors are broken. The rest seems to be all there.

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RE: Buying a Scimitar


Here's a couple likns to the work I done on my boat Brian .. I done the last job in 34 days I think, working 8 to 10 hours a day.

http://www.olered.com/Scimitar_02.html

http://www.olered.com/RedsScimitar.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_G9xtEcwHIA


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RE: Buying a Scimitar


Hi Olered, I'm thankful for your advice. I need to be able to type faster as I was replying to Bill when you posted. I'm interested in this boat becuase it is a very sharp looking boat. I'm not really interested in reselling unless finances dictate that I must. I'm going to try to negotiate the price down to 5500.00 we will see how that goes. Now the only thing that concerns me is how to replace the floor ie rebonding the new floor to the old structured, repaired or just to inspect I want to replace it. Realisticly it is probably rotten as the boat is 30 yrs old. What kind of foam to use etc etc.

Again thanks for your input Brian

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RE: Buying a Scimitar


Hi Pelican Bill,  Ok so I'm going to find rot, I saw the pictures of yours, wholly cow nice job. I have some talent in automotive repair so I think the price of 7500.00 or best offer will be ok. What I don't know is how long it takes to do the repairs like you did and ole red did. It looks like a lot of work. I've built at least a dozen cars and this will be my first boat. I also have an LS1 engine sitting in my garage. I'm not sure if I will rebuild the original or buy a wiring harness and install a fuel injected motor. Is the boat worth more original or is custom ok? Whatever the case if it isn't too rotten you will be hearing a lot more from me as I plan to have this baby refurbished for June.

Thanks Brian



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RE: Buying a Scimitar


Welcome to the site Brian.  Bill has givin you  some good advice, he knows from expreience.

I am convinced that Most all of these boats have some rot in them at their age, unless you happen across one that has had a recent floor, transom, and possibly stringers replaced, and even then you must check the work performed, if it was done right. 

The first place to look for rot
( soft spot ) is under the rear seat, if you find the floor to be soft under there, there is a very good risk that the foam under the floor is waterlogged.  There are a bunch of two inch X four inch foam log's layed under the floor for flotation, unlike the boxes in the rear of the boat, the boxes were poured with the expandable foam Bill described.  The foam logs, when continually in contact with water,  absorb the water and can never dry out, therefore causing the bottom of the floor rot.  Sometimes you see a soft floor that has just been over-layed with new plywood, and advertised as the boat having a new floor, all that does is covers up a hazard, rotten stringers, the weight of the saturated foam, compromizing the structural integrity of the hull  with no flotation protection. 

Another tell tale area to check is the storage area up under the front, the floor of the center storage area is the floor of the boat, but the side storage area's are a sub floor, about 10 inches above the floor of the boat, where the 36 gallon gas tank is, and under the sub floor, there are a bunch more of those foam logs stuffed up there, under the side storage space's,  if either of those areas are soft, there is a good chance the boat will require major work to be safe.

The Transom is oviously the Most important place to check for rot, thats not the biggest job to replace, but thats generally where the rot begins, because water get's into the transom wood, through screw holes, the drain plug hole, through the drive cut-out, the bolt holes, and from the little
"hip pockets" back there on each side of the transom box, they too are filled with the pouared expansion foam, and quick to absorb water, allowing it find it's way into the transom, kinda like a wick in a lamp,  and thats generally where the rot will begin into the stringers.  The piece of plywood that is bonded to the transom box, and span's to each side of the hull is pretty important to check for rot, that piece of wood is the first lay-up uf the transom, when it has rot in it, between the flotation boxes, and the transom box, there is a good chance the transom has rot in it also.

Not trying to scare you out of the notion of buying the boat, by no means, these are Great boats, and they are very sought after, not many of them, and have a really good resale value, but, they are often mis-represented by a seller because he don't know the boat contains the rotted area's his self,  I just want you to know what you are looking for, and whats involved in the repair.

In my opinion, the boat is a great project, and the price he is asking is not that far out of reason as long as it has a good windshield,  no major damage to the hull, and the gelcoat can be brought back to life.   I have bought two of these boats that were total projects, both purchased for about $5000 as they were, and here's the facts about the restoration of both, it was a lot of work, cost a Lot of money to do it, and the boats are only worth about what was invested into them when they were finished.  I still have my first one, and I have a lot more money in it than it is worth probably, but I enjoy it, it looks pretty good, it's pretty fast,  and it draws more attention, every where I take it,  than any boat I have ever owned, and it would take a rediculous offer for someone else to own it.

I have told several people looking to buy on of these boats this ... it thats what you want, and you have the money to bring it back to life, go for it, give it what it needs to be what you want it to be, and enjoy the heck out of it, don't worry about what it's worth when ya get done if you plan on keeping it,  but if you plan on resatoring ne for the market, this day and time, the chances are very slim that you will make a profit.


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RE: Buying a Scimitar


Welcome to the site, Autobodyguy. As to your question regarding dry rot, the short answer is...yea it's gonna have dry rot and probably in several places! I suggest that you take a rubber mallot for the inspection and pound the poop out of every square inch that  was constructed of plywood.ashamed The fact that the engine is out of the boat should make it easier to do this,as you can climb into the engine compartment and get up "close and personal". Some of the critical ares include...the three part transome,the flotation boxes located on either side of the engine, the entire floor,all the way forward to the dash board station, the engine hatch covers,the bench seat,the bucket seats,and oh ya,one of the more critical areas are the stringers! Unfortunately, these boats were filled with "open cell" polyurethane foam which did serve as saftey flotation,however the foam has a sponge like quality and retains water! Hence, dry rot in several critical places.doh If you scroll down the forum  to billbhill you can see some of the pictures I posted for my Scimitar restoration[these pics are on page 1&2].  Ole Red is an expert on all things pretaining to the restoration of these magnificant speed boats,and he has posted several pictures along with very helpful explanitions! I hope this info will be helpful to you in discrening the scope of the condition of this boat,and it's real market value. Good luck and keep us posted.  Pelican Bill smile

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Buying a Scimitar


Hi Guys, I'm going to see the scimitar listed on kijiji for sale this weekend.

Is there any advice on where to look for rot? The engine and drive have been removed and are sitting in the guys garage. The engine needs rebuilding and the owner says the rest worked fine. 

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